Hi Everyone,

Quick update:My Trip and therefore The blog will continue for a few more weeks, as I have been through the most frustrating ordeal changing my return flight. Apparently the time I want to fly is very popular. I have booked the next flight home on March 9th..

So I'm in Agra, the town which hosts the Taj Mahal. I really don't know what to say about the Taj itself. Its indescribable, a true wonder of the world. I have 50 pictures that I'm sure will do little better to depict the grandeur and majesty of this structure. Few sights have left me so speechless. To describe it visually would be futile, as it is likely the most photographed monument in the world, each of us have seen countless postcards. I simply can't put the experience into words. You will just have to go see it yourself.

So instead of rambling on about the Taj, I have a few quick stories about my time short time in Dehli, and my stay here in Agra. First of all, I feel bad for anyone who starts the trip in Dehli, and worse for those whose second experience in India is Agra. These places are so different from the south, apart from the hospitality that I experienced. Far from the generous, friendly and caring people I met along my way the last 5 weeks. Dehli and Agra, along with Jaipur, form the golden triangle, a tourist circuit that is immensly popular. An easy and well defined tourist trail. The tourist draw of the Taj Mahal brings more people annually than the entire population of the town. As a result of the constant flow of travellers, and wide eyed tourists, the people have come to develop a keen sense of how to rip you off, there is a constant effort made to sell you something. I am a walking wallet.

Last night was a prime example. I had viewed the Taj, and seen the nearby Agra fort in the day, getting my tourist quota filled for the day. I decided to end my night with a more authentic endeavor. I made my way down the road to check out the locals fair. This fair is set up for a week, and features the typical attractions of any western style fair. Greasy food, rides, entertainment, and loads of crap for sale. The lights and people around me were overwhelming in the way that I enjoy. I stopped in to check out the main stage performance. A live performance of Dance India Dance was featured, and the crowd was going wild. I'd say more like excited. An Indian style of Wild. I became a little frustrated, I was unable to just take in the attractions, to just wander the streets unnoticed. I suppose its to be expected, but I was growing tired of being asked where I was from, and being asked where I was going. I wanted to scream "I'm just walking here! Looking, leave me alone". I drew a bigger crowd of attention when I stood in the audience of the concert performance, nearly half the crowd turning to gaze at the single white guy amongst the group. Over top of the loud music, people were still asking me the same 3 stupid questions, and I eventually just ignored them and watched.

So as I arrived to the fair, I was approached by a young boy. A nice looking kid approached me, eager to talk and happy to show me towards the entry gate. I assumed he was interested in the big white guy, as so many others are, interested to chat, with no ulterior motive. I said I wanted to eat, and I was shown to the food. I ordered something that looked good as it was served, and of course, as I should have known, my new "friend" is also very hungry, and of course, big brother who has all the money in the world, would gladly spring for the bill..

I figured that since he was very helpful in helping me find my way, the littlt guy deserved the dollar I spent on his meal. What bothered me was when the shop owners have me looks that questioned our friendship. They got a little mad at the boy, saying something in Hindi which gave the boy a sheepish, guilty look. I heard the word guest, and could gather from the tone that the older men were upset that the boy was intentionally working me to get money, food or gifts from me. I realized the young buy had the idea from the start that he would get what he could from me, never really caring about me in any way. It just sucked, cause so many others have just genuinely been nice, and helpful because I am a guest to India, and because I'm a different looking white dude in a small town.

So I dodged the kid at the concert, right after he asked if I wanted to go to the rides. Meaning, the little shit wanted to take a few rides, and wanted to see if I would pay for my "friend" too.. I wandered some more, and since I was up early to see the Taj at dawn, grew tired quickly. So as I was approached by another guy I was not too thrilled to chat, but let the same formalities unfold. I was from Canada, my name is Thomas, I have a girlfriend, etc etc. I was thrown off a little, and intrigued when the guy around me age started talking about women. A curious chat, a search apparently on how to talk to girls, seeking advice on how to talk to girls. I endulged the chat, and humerously gave what I knew, underlying the fact that women are a strange species, very far and different from men, and that we will never understand them. My advice was simply not to try, and just to just be nice, smile and say genuine, nice, sweet things. I don't think you can go wrong with that..

The conversation got a little boring, and I told the guy good luck, said I was on my way home. Since I walked, the guy was eager to help me out with a lift on his bike. My new friend, my second new friend, wanted to be nice and get me home faster. So we find his bicycle and we double ride out the gates and away from the fair. I realized right away that we were headed the opposite direction I had came, but still towards my hotel, thinking maybe he would take the inner streets back. He seemed to know my hotel and we kept chatting as we rode along. My ass grew sore from the steel frame, so I rode for a bit while he sat on the back. This got a few laughs in the street as we passed by, the polar opposite situation of usual. So we leave the small streets and enter the larger surrounding street, at this point clearly not the fastest way back to my hotel, but still I have an Idea where I am, and think that by bike, it might still be faster.

This is where things get hairy. My new friend starts his plee, the I'm a very poor man, I have no money, is there anything you can do to help. I got mad inside, this same pitch, the work involved to create a relationship of understanding, only to use it to get something in return. I fumed a little, but simply said I can only offer my friendship, and giving money would ruin that. I also gave free advice, and that should be more than enough. As we ventured what seemed further away from my hotel, and as the man persisted to ask for just a few Dollars, I became outwardly angry, I confronted him. I asked if he had thought to ask me for money when he first met me. I could tell he had set me up, realized now that he took me a long way from where I should be, an attempt to get more time to work the money from me. So when he says, "oh, this is my home, your hotel is that way, I can take you, but what should my charge to take you be?"

I said fuck you. I said no more friends, I'll walk home. "But how do you get home, you don't know where you are?" The scam artist says. I'll figure it out. I'd rather pay a taxi than your cheater ass, now get out of my sight. I found a cop, got my bearings and headed in the direction of my hotel. This was for the first time in India, that I was truly scared. I walked with fists clenched through the dark streets alone, away from the tourist hotels, at 1230pm. The alleys were dark, and my mind would race as I saw men on cell phones, worried about being set up for an ambush. The scammer had seen my camera, had known I had my Ipod, would assume I had some cash.

I pushed on, relieved when I began to see familiar places, and then relaxed when I knew the right route to take. I was absolutley thrilled to see the doors of my hotel took a deep breath when I sat on my bed. I was also very angry, disappointed with the Indian people, a terrible impression of the Indian culture. A reason I feel so bad for those who come to Agra as a second stop on their Indian Travels.

So I hope none of you take this story and worry, I was safe the whole time. Its just the way things are sometimes.

So what can I say about Dehli. I didn't see much to be honest, I was tired from my flight, and the ordeal I underwent changing my flight, so I spent my first day just walking through the main market outside my hotel. I'll have a few more days in town to see some sights on my way out, but wont be too upset if I miss the city..

So let me tell you about my trip to Agra.

I wandered over to the nearby train station the day before I planned to see the Taj. The international tourist office was closed at the time, the lines to reserve tickets were jammed. So when a well dressed man asked me if I wanted to take a bus, I figured, sure why not. I decided I would see what he had to offer. I ended up at his office across from the train, and decided not to take the 450rp bus he suggested. I simply went back to my hotel to think, still after 5 weeks in India I'm shell shocked in this mass of a city. I regrouped my thoughts, and decided to make another attempt to find a way to Agra. I was again approached and show to an office, but given a better price, in a better looking bus. I went ahead and booked a ticket for 350 rp, to Agra, and a few stops along the way. I was happy with my purchase, and felt that it was a fair deal. So I packed my bags the night before, set my alarm and got excited about seeing the Taj Mahal the next day!

Wrong. I set my alarm wrong. It was scheduled to go off at 5:30pm, rather than the 5:30 am need to get me downstairs for the 6am pick-up. So when I woke at 6:15, I scrambled out of bed, and checked out, and ran off down the street in hopes of seeing a waiting coach bus nearby. Wrong again. 350 rp wasted on a bus that I will never take. This loss however didn't sting as much as being ripped off, I only had myself to blame.

So its 7:30 am now. I have my bag over shoulder and ready to go to Agra. I decided to give the train another shot, prepared to push and shove amongst the rest to get a ticket and get there. I was pleased to find an empty line, and booked a ticket to Agra for 69 rp. General Class. :)

Let me just explain general class..

There are no seats assigned, you lucky if you have a square of train to stand on. But at the start of the trains journey, the tin has yet to be fully packed, I am able to get into the train, and make my way to the overhead seats. The "seats" are essentially overhead luggage storage with enough room to sit upright and which can accomodate around 4 people across.

I am surrounded by Indian people, surely the only white person on board the car, and I'm welcomed fully with open, albeit curious arms. I sit up on my perch and stow my bags, and settle in for the 4 hour journey. I manage to get my yoga mat out and on the bench, my legs stretched out to rest on the opposite bench from me. I have to admit that the arrangement was actually more comfortable than some of the sleeper train I can ridden this trip. I didn't have anyone try to rip me off, and I made it there in the same time I would have by bus. SO despite the lost 350 rp. I was pleased to be in the city.

Ok. This has been a big entry. My ass is numb.

Thanks for reading :)