Mathura - India

I have left the tourist saturated town of Agra, and have happily made my new temporary home in Matura. The town is renowned for being host to the most revered temple of Shri Krishna-the famous Krishna Janma Bhoomi Mandir. The temple is the place where lord Krishna is said to have been born thousands of years ago. This is significant because in a days time, the town will celebrate the biggest festival of the year, and I am in the town where it is celebrated the biggest. I imagine this festival to be a crazy combination of colour, dance and devotion.

The past two days spent here have been action packed already. As the town celebrates Holi for 16 days leading up to the final day, a certain energy exists in the place. There are travellers from all over India who come to praise lord Krishna, and view the site of the great lords birth. The streets are packed and the sales people are on full power.

I was lucky on my first morning to arrive at the temple as an event was taking place. I entered through the gates and made my way towards the mosh pit style crowd. Like a rock concert for Hindu's, a huge set of marble stairs were filled like bleachers, watching the floor space go crazy. On the ground level a play fight interaction was unfolding between some middle aged women and men dressed in costume. As the crowd of young men grew closer to the play fighters, the women would suddenly lash out at the crowd, beating the asses of the closest boys. This sent the crowd into a mob, pushing and shoving away from the assualt with huge intensity. I was happy to be a foot taller than the majority of Indian boys, so I could keep on my feet and avoid being trampled. But as this game of cat and mouse continues, the boys creep ever closer to the action, risking a beating, and seeing who can get closest.Of course I am urged forward, at this point unknowing of the potential bamboo beating. So that was how I learned first hand about the crazed middle aged women. I was gradually pushed to the front lines, and stood nervously near the edge of crowd, trying to find out what they were running from the first times. I saw the play fighting, and just as I'm about to duck back into the crowd, a woman breaks from her choreogrphy, and swings hard at my ass, I take the hit, and push into the crowd, I take two more hits to my legs and back before I cam able to shield myself with the first Indian I can grab. I laughed at myself then, and again now when I look back, picturing my self physically holding a small Indian man in front of me, using him as a shield from the beating of a middle aged Indian woman with a bamboo pole!

The colour was a deep pink that day. During the battles, people atop the surrounding roof tops threw handfuls of the powder dye down upon the crowd. Silver and gold confetti was mixed in with the mess, and those in the area walked out covered head to toe in these hues. I was late for the colours, arrive as the battle was finishing, having just enough time to get my ass beat before the celebration ceased and the shrine opened for viewing.

The local people, those of Hindu faith consider viewing the shrines of deity's to be as exciting as throwing colours and beating people with poles. The same excitment was evident as I followed the crowd through the inner workings of the grand temple. The clotrophobic, dark and narrow hallways led to a cave like room. A priest sat accepting donations and giving blessings as devotess by the thousands stream through, bowing, praying and reciting mantra. We exit through the other end, back along another narrow, dark hallway and out into the square.

I reflect on the devotion of these people, thinking hard about this celebration and the influence religion plays in the lives of these people. I have seen people lying flat at the entrance of shrines, rolling side to side, arms stretched over head, like a log roll back and forth in the name of god. I have seen tears and joy, excitment bording on riot. I observed one particular shrine. This building was designed like a childrens ammusment ride at a fair ground. The exterior is decorated as a massive fake mountain, shaped like boulders and surrounded by ponds and trees. In the yard in front, and herd of animals and sheppards are there for show. 3 rupees buys an entrance, and whole families line up to view the sacred insides. I throught to myself while I watched the procession of people enter and exit the building that this is like Canada's Wonderland for Hindu's. There are sweets sold, entertainment is all around, the rides are kind of lame, but essentially they have the same effect. I spoke further with a few travellers I met, and we discussed the same idea, and it seems that this society simply has a larger space for religion. We in the west have filled that need with our over abundance of social security and wealth. One guy even compared corporate infrustructure to ancient religion, with the CEO being the new priest. We are now devoted to the almighty dollar, praying that our jobs will bring us the happiness we pray for.

I still think its all smoke and mirrors. Literally. I sat yesterday in a temple that we were directed to by an unoffical "guide". This gentleman was so very helpful, gladly showing us around a particular temple, of course with no mention of wanting money. But of course that will come after he provides his great educational service to us. Anyway, were led into a temple, a beautiful hall lined to the ceiling with reflective glass and colorful tiles, light bouncing off in intricate patterns. The insence are burning and wisps of smoke arc across the room, adding to the spiritual vibes. The two priests sit atop the low stage, and greet people as they arrive. We are urged to sit and recieve the offering, make a prayer and have a small fortune told. I sit back a little, choosing to just observe rather than partake. The girls I was touring the temple with eagerly sat and were handed a silver egg attached to a silver basket, as you pull the egg, the basket shakes. 3 pulls and your wishes will come true. A sprinkle of holy water, a flower necklace and 100 rupees later, your umm, Blessed?

I sat back and just observed because I don't see the point. I don't believe any of it, I think its nice, fun to watch, great to think about and observe. But I don't believe. I don't think for a second that shaking an egg or wearing blessed flowers will bring me anything good in my life. I also don't think eating some stale craker at church is the flesh of christ, to me its all just smoke and mirrors. So when I'm asked for my donation, I kindly refuse, considering I didn't participate. I say the the guide, the man asking for me to donate, that My god is Free...

Whatever my god is. Its not Flowers, its nor insense, its not shaking some silver egg in a glass temple. I'm just here to watch. I've seen how much joy it brings to the people around me, the Hindu people. So I'm glad to see it, but not for me. I'm just here to throw some colorful dye and dance around silly in the street :)

After we left the temples, the girls I hung out with for the day were off to Agra, and I was left to my own to entertain myself. I went back to the temple near my hotel, the place of krishna's birth. A place where it seems something is always happening. I lined up and walked around the temple but not much was happening. So I sat on the empty stairs that were used as bleachers the day before, and watch the crowd mill about. I noticed a slow procession towards the shrine at the top. So I wandered towards the excitment. I entered the interior temple and was greeted with the rhythm of drums and chimes, a man was up and singing, while a crowd sat cross legged watching. I sat with the crowd and clapped along to the song. I was greeted with friendly smiles, warm welcoming. So when the song changed tempo and intensity, the crowd jumped up and the dancing began. I'm right in the middle now, no way to avoid dancing, so I forget it all and join in with the best of them. I'm jumping and spinning, laughing uncontrolably as I dance the silly indian dance. I screw in the light bulb, I pat the dog. I let my hips go and roll my shoulders like a bollywood star. I lock arms with a man and spin around the room, laughing and yelling. I have never felt so silly and comforable at the same time. I felt like a fool the way I was dancing, but it turns out I was doing well, as silly as I felt. The other mimicked my dance moves, and I copied thiers. We would pair up and challenge each other like a dance off, repeating the dance they did, and answering back with some new move. I had a great time. I realized that this fun, this dance and singing, it is all in the name of their devotion to God. So despite the smoke and mirrors, the cash grab in temples. I guess it brings the people together.

Anyway, just my thoughts.

Buddyjoe16@hotmail.com

Feel free to write me, would love to hear from you all. Thanks for reading.

I'll let you know how the big day goes tomorrow. :)